![]() ![]() ![]() If you want to melt your ice dams, don’t use anything with salt (or chemicals). If you want rectangular holes, use salt bricks.Įither the pucks or the brick will work if you want a hole in your wallet. If you want round little holes in the snow & ice on your roof, use salt pucks. Bad ice dam removal method #2: salt pucks or salt bricks as a way to prevent ice dams, to install them after ice dams have formed is a an absolute sham and waste of time and money. Those are the same bad candy in a different wrapper.Īlthough we almost never recommend heat-cables, heated-panels, etc. The same is true of “snow melt mat” and “heated sheet-metal panels” and similar products. That’s if the cables melt the ice at all, which they may not. So you end up with even more water on your roof – and perhaps eventually in your house – than you’d have if you’d left the ice dam alone. The trouble is the cables aren’t hot enough to remove an existing ice dam, so the ice dam just keeps growing right over of your heat cables. The theory is that you can lay the heat cables on top of an ice dam and slowly melt channels into the ice, releasing dammed-up water. But when a self-proclaimed “professional” claims to solve all your ice dam problems for years to come, and for a fraction of the price it will cost you to have ice dams removed, it’s hard to say no. In our experience they aren’t very effective at that, and they’re even less effective at removing ice dams that have already formed. Some people try to use heat cables to prevent ice dams from forming in the first place. Bad ice dam removal method #1: heat cables When someone really wants to avoid hiring an ice dam removal company, or a company is desperate for customers, strange and bad things often go down.īelow are 10 ice dam removal methods we suggest you avoid – because they’re ineffective, dangerous, or both. Never underestimate the lengths people will go to save a buck, or the lengths others will go to make a buck. ![]()
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